Year 10: 7.2 Waves - Water on the Move

 

 Crest                                             Wavelength                                               Crest

                                                                                      Wave height
                                                                          Trough

Spilling Break -


 Spilling Waves
Break far from the shore on beaches with gentle slopes. The surf(white foam) gently rolls over the front so these waves are good for body surfing


Gentle Beach Slope

Plunging Breaker

Break on beaches where the slope is moderately steep. Board riders like these waves because of the tubes they form.

Shallow to intermediate beach slope

Surging breaker
Occur on very steep beaches. The waves roll up the steep face rather than breaking over it. They cause erosion

Steep Beach slope




                                                         
                                                                   Ripples                      Fully Developed        Changing                                                           
                                                                   to chop                      Seas                           to swell  
                                                                   to wind
                                                                   waves

                                                 Length of fetch                    
                                                                                                                                 Direction of wave advance


                                                          

            Path of wave particles                  Shallow depth shortens wavelength       SurfZone

            Deep Water                                                                     Surf Zone              Breakers 

                                                                                                                                 

                                                                                                                                 Beach